He encontrado esto eroe sta en ingles y suxeo al traducirlo admeas que hay partes donde no le entiendo T_T or favor salvenme!!!


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First of all, you're going to need supplies, and a pattern. I recommend using Simplicity 9769, which you could technically use and follow the instructions, but it just doesn't turn out near as hardcore as the ones we made in class using a different method, which is the one they used back in the victorian days. All the corset supplies can be bought from corsetmaking.com, which I use all the time when I'm at home cause they're fast and good priced.

Supplies:

-1 metre/yard of fabric of your choice
-1 metre/yard of corset coutil or heavy duty cotton
-matching thread and contrasting thread
-sewing supplies- scissors, needles, pins, tape measure, tracing wheel and paper, chalk pencil, seam ripper
-corset busk (usually they use 12")
-boning- 1/4" wide- you can order these in cut lengths after you figure out the length, or buy it by the metre/yard, but then you need cutters and ends
-eyelets/grommets- 20 to 30 depending on how close they are together/how long the back of your corset is, the best idea is to buy a kit, so you have all the supplies to put the eyelets in.
-trims and decorations

OK. First thing, Because it will be a lot easier this way, for me to write and for anyone else to understand. If you are using the Simplicity pattern, don't use the back facing pieces, and label the other 6 pieces A, B, C, D, E, and F, with A being the center front piece, and F being center back. Other patterns, hopefully have similar pieces, most seem to have around 5/6 plus or minus the pieces for the busk/eyelets.

STEP 1- Cut out your pattern, most include seam allowance already, add if it it doesn't, then add an extra 1 1/2" to the panels B and C. This is for fitting purposes, to make it easier, and in case it's too small when you fit it. Also, I advise adding a couple of inches to the top and bottom, in case you want it longer or shorter than a standard corset (which often is nipple height, to mid hip, most people want it slightly longer on both ends)
-Your pieces should look somewhat like this when cut out.


2-You will have a piece of boning on either side of every seam. I am very small, so I only have a few in between seams, but if you are larger, you will need more boning. Mark on the pattern where the extra boning in between seams will go, depending on how big the piece is, you might have 1 to 3 bones in each panel. You can see on the above photo where I marked for the extra boning.

3-Put your pattern on the coutil (or your lining cotton), and pin it. With your tracing paper, transfer all marks on the pattern to the coutil, especially the waist marks and the top and bottom.
-Make sure all your pieces are going in the same direction. Cut out!


4- Mark your top fabric in the same way, cut out.

5- Hand baste with a contrasting thread color through the waist on all pieces, and the top and bottom. On the coutil, also baste where the bones are going to be. This will all be very helpful later on, even though its a pain in the ass now.

6- On your coutil, sew pieces A to B, and pieces C to D to E to F, make sure the waist lines match as you sew, this is important. DO NOT sew B to C. You should have 4 separate pieces now. Do the same to the top fabric, and you will have 8. Press all seams open.
-It will look like this


7- With right sides together, sew the center back (CB) of the coutil to the CB of the corresponding piece of top fabric. Don't trim the seam allowance, as it will help anchor the eyelets later on.

8- Flip it so right sides are out, and iron the seam. Match the pressed open seams (of the coutil and the top fabric) together, and pin down the seam, then sink stitch through each seam between C, D, E, and F.
Your back pieces should look like this now (except I was missing one piece on either end. w/e)


9- On either side of the seams you just sewed through, sew a line to make boning channels. Sew the channel slightly wider than the boning, so that it will slide through, and not make your life hell. You can also sew any boning channels in between these seams now.

10-On the edge of the CB piece, sew a line as close to the edge as you can (1/8"ish), then sew parallel to that for a bone. Depending on the size of eyelets you have, your next line will be a different distance from this. Lay an eyelet on the fabric to give you an idea, then sew along next to that, and one more paralel to that line for a second piece of boning next to the eyelets. At this point you'll have 4 lines of stitching there.

11- Busk! Hopefully I can describe this well, it's really not very hard, but it is hard to write it out clearly. So there are two sides, a looped side and a studded side. Usually, the loops are on your right side, therefore they will be on the left when you're laying it out on a table. Hold the busk up to you to figure out where it should lay on you, and mark where your waist is on it.

Studs- Pin the right sides of the coutil and fabric left center front (CF) pieces together and sew. Trim the seam allowance down to half, turn wrong sides together, and match the waists, then press it. Topstitch 1/8" from the edge. Place the studded edge along the stitching, matching the waist marked on the metal to the waist on the fabric. Mark where the top stud is on the outer fabric, poke a small hole, and press the top stud through. Then holding the busk, stretch the fabric slightly, mark the bottom hole, cut and push through the bottom stud. Then mark the rest of the studs in between and push them through. Hand baste around the metal to hold it in place, then use a zipper foot to machine stitch around it.

Loops- Pin the right sides of the coutil to the fabric CF (on the left piece now). Match the loops to the studs on the piece you just sewed, and mark the top and bottom of each loop in the seam allowance of the pinned piece. When you sew this together, you will leave a gap where you marked, so the loops fit through later. Trim the seam allowance to half, turn it wrong sides together, and press. Insert the loops through the gaps, and hand baste around the metal, then machine stitch with the zipper foot.

-The finished busk should look something like this (ignore my d-rings)


12- Pin the pressed seams of A and B and sink stitch, as you did with the back half. Again, sew on either side of the seam to make boning channels.

13- Baste together the coutil and top fabric of the pieces with the extra seam allowance (B and C), then sew B to C (not with a tiny stitch, cause you're going to have to rip it out later) Make sure that you sew B to C with the seam allowance on the outside.
-It should look like this now.


14- Insert all boning now. This will make a difference in how it fits.

15- Eyelets/grommets- Mark the positioning of the eyelets, starting at the waist: don't put an eyelet, but put one on either side, close together. The others should be about 1 to 1 1/4" apart, and end 1/2" from the marked top and bottom. Follow the instructions on the pack to put them in, cause they have different ways to put different kinds in.



16- Lace up the back from the top to the waist, then the bottom to the waist, leaving a wide space in the back. You will lace it up tighter when you fit it, so there's no need to try to squeeze into it.

17- Get a friend, have them help you fit it. Leaving the back loosely laced, hook the busk in the front. Have your friend pull in at the waist, then tighten the laces on top and bottom. Don't pull too tight at first, just pull until it fits, comfortable, if slightly snug.

18- Leaving on your corset, sit down, relax, have some tea, whatever. Wait for 10 or so minutes, then tighten it more. You should end up with approximately 2" open in the back if it fits correctly.


-If there is a huge gap in the back, or it laces closed, don't worry! That's why you left the fitting seam. If it is too small, you can measure how much more you need, undo the fitting seam, and resew it bigger, then try it on again, or if it's too big, measure and sew in more on the fitting seam.

19- Once you have it on, the size is right, and you're all happy with that, check it out in a mirror, and decide where you want it to end on the top and the bottom, and mark it on one side. Take it off, loosening the laces before undoing the busk (I hear they snap sometimes, though it's never happened to me).

20- Transfer your marks to the other side, then undo the fitting seam. You might want to tack the marks you made, in case they rub off while you're sewing.

21- Sew together top fabric B to C, on your marked line (or original, if it fit ok in the first place), then trim the excess allowance and press open the seam.

22- Sew B of the coutil flat onto the open seam, the fold C under and do a run and fell seam on top of it (or just topstitch it, making sure that its sewn into the seam on the top layers). Sew on either side of this seam to make the boning channels, then insert the remaining boning.

23- Machine stitch along the top and bottom lines that you marked for your finished edge, this will keep the boning in. Then trim the seam allowance on the top and bottom to 1/2".

24- Sew bias binding (you can buy this or make it yourself out of your corset fabric) to the top and bottom.

25- Add any frills or decorations that please you, and then you're done!!

PS: Make sure not to tighten your corset too much in a short amount of time ever, cause I totally did that today, and I almost passed out, and it was really scary and stupid.

My corset isn't quite done, I still have to do the binding and trim, but this is how it looks so far.



On a side note, I would not recommend this to someone who has never sewn before, or who doesn't sew much. I make corsets all the time, and it was not easy. For anyone who is comfortable with sewing, and sews often, it should be fine though. If anyone does try it, let me know how it turns out! And if you are trying and have any questions, or if I worded something crappy, post them, I promise I'll answer them as best as I can. Someone better try! I'll cry otherwise.


PS Finished:

Puuff... A mi me parece muy dificil de hacer.

Flipar como tiene la cintura la chica de la foto!! estrechita, estrechita

Yo si quieres te lo traduzco pero la chica que lo escribio ya avisa que es para costureras expertas, vamos que no hay mas que verlo tiene chorrocientas piezas y pasos
Ademas pone que necesitas el patron Simplicity 9769 para cortar las piezas
Necesitas material especifico, el cierre de delante (busk), varillas de metal (boning) y y los ojetes y los d-rings (las anillas esas en forma de D, no se como se dice en castellano) hay que ponerlos con una maquina especial

Si sigues atreviendote a hacerlo intentare traducirlo, lo malo es que hay terminos de costura que no conozco en castellano, he leido tanto en ingles de corses que se a que se refiere pero no se el nombre, pero te explicare lo mejor que pueda lo que significan

Besis :*****

las anillas en forma de D en Chile se llaman "orejas de oso" y se ponen con ojetilladoras con matrices para broches, acá al menos no es dificil de conseguir, de hecho mi novio tiene una y con ella hacemos articulos de cuero.
yo me hice un underbust, compre las barras de silicona y todo, pero fue un trabajo enorme, porque hay que pensar que se debe poner cada una de las barras envueltas en género.
de todas formas agradeceria si alguien la traduce porque al ser yo autodidacta no sé si estaré haciendo las cosas bien, o si hay otras formas para hacerlas

 Hola zombie_kazz.

Exactamente ¿qué quieres saber?, ¿entiendes de patronaje de prendas?. No sé de donde eres, pero si quieres hacer ese corsé hay una pieza, el cierre delantero llamado en inglés 'Busk' que no lo creo que lo consigas en españa, yo lo pido en Inglaterra.

Saludos,

El Dulce Ogro.

woo yo ando queriendome hacer un corse hace tiempo, se coser y patronaje pero sigue siendo mi santo grial, ya que soy adicta a los corses.
Mi consejo es que hagas primero un corpiño sin varillas y le pongas solo ojetes, la ojeteadora la consigues en cualquier ferreteria. Y el cierre delantero sustituyelo por una cremallera invisible a un costado.
Si quieres simular las lazadas laterales, puedes poner unas presillas del mismo género en vez de los ojos de metal.
Y sobretodo empieza haciendo un corse en tela de algodón, siempre puedes utilizarlo como forro, es mi consejo.
Tmbién puedes comprar uno en alguna tienda como Blanco los hay baratos y desmontarlo para sacar las piezas. Así aprendieron grandes modistos!
besos

Pero Le Petite Jolie, si haces los cambios que has dicho tu ya no será un corset, será un top con varillas o_o
Precisamente en ese cierre delantero y en que no tiene cremalleras reside su resistencia y dureza, son siglos de evolución y mejora lo que los ha llevado a ser asi y no como los del H&M -.-

=O
es exelente se recontra agradeceeee
n_______n

Me encanta la cinturita de la chica *.* y sobretodo, su arte y el peazo tatuaje de alas en la espalda ^.^' xDDD

*Topic añadido a la lista
Por favor si alguien tiene tiempo y ganas que lo traduzca T.T

Vale yo me animo a traducirlo, pero me gustaria saber de donde lo sacaron para dar las referencias ( y de paso ver si hay algo mas)

Eso si no prometo fechas que soy muuuu vaga